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Roan Red 2009

90 Points

MARK TARBELL,

Wine Critic & Iron CHEF

AZ REPUBLIC December 21, 2010


Winter red wines make great gift

2009 Pillsbury Wine Co. Roan Red, Cochise County ($20-$22) - (63 percent Grenache, 25 percent Mourvedre, 12 percent Syrah.) This wine is shockingly light in color; I expected an American Rhone-like darkness, but it's more like a French Rhone Grenache. This is good! The aroma has sexy appeal from the American Oak resin and cedar, with juicy ripe red fruit. The taste has a balanced pepper grip while being rounded out with lush fruit. It's really all it should be. 90 points.

The other day I was talking with someone about wine. He had been holiday shopping at one of the new mega wine stores and said that while it was a great place to buy vodka, every time he picked up one of the store's recommended wines he was disappointed. He wanted to give wines that his friends would appreciate and was looking for guidance.

It's hard to recommend wines without knowledge of a person's tastes. Even your best friend might know what you like but not why. So to surprise a person with something different that will still be enjoyed can be a challenge.

First of all, don't be too fixated on price. There's an acceptable price range for wines that come in a bottle, and I think the sweet spot is $8-$18. There is a tremendous inventory of choice in this range. There are many wines of true merit priced higher, but it's not often comfortable to spend that much. (That said, there is no better time than now to buy higher-end boutique wines. The economy has made them more available than in good times. Stock up.)

More important than price is an acceptable taste profile. If you're not sure what your friend likes, you can find a safe bet. There are two camps in white wines, for example. Camp 1 likes "dry" whites; the wines must have a crisp citrus character and not taste "bitter." Camp 2 loves Chardonnays and the like. It looks for softness, toast, creaminess and "oaky, toasty" character. If you know the "camp" your friend usually stays in, you'll be able to choose something he or she will enjoy.

In the red department, we Arizonans lean toward the California style of ripe, fruit-forward, smooth and extracted. Here are a few reds that will not go unappreciated.

2009 Pillsbury Wine Co. Roan Red, Cochise County ($20-$22) - (63 percent Grenache, 25 percent Mourvedre, 12 percent Syrah.) This wine is shockingly light in color; I expected an American Rhone-like darkness, but it's more like a French Rhone Grenache. This is good! The aroma has sexy appeal from the American Oak resin and cedar, with juicy ripe red fruit. The taste has a balanced pepper grip while being rounded out with lush fruit. It's really all it should be. 90 points.

Recently Featured In Wine Spectator Blog 
Posted February 22, 2010 (online edition) Here is an excerpt:

Rising Stars of the Southwest

James Molesworth

The state of Arizona has a small but emerging wine scene. These 19 very good reds and whites are bringing credibility to the wines of the Grand Canyon State Read More          

 

 

Of note here are new wines from former filmmaker Sam Pillsbury’s Pillsbury Wine Company.

PILLSBURY WINE COMPANY Petite Sirah Cochise County Stronghold Vineyard 2007 Score: 89 | $54

Ripe but nicely focused, with a delicious brambly streak holding the blueberry, blackberry and Linzer torte flavors together. Smoky, but integrated with a spice-filled finish. Very tasty. Drink now. 30 cases made. Red.—J.M.

 PILLSBURY WINE COMPANY Diva Cochise County 2007 Score: 88 | $36

Juicy and ripe, with lots of wild blueberry, loganberry and linzer torte flavors backed by a smoky mesquite note. The fleshy finish shows a streak of raisin, but stays focused and fresh enough. Lots of fun. Grenache, Petite Sirah and Mourvèdre. Drink now. 173 cases made. Red. —J.M.

PILLSBURY WINE COMPANY Roan Red Cochise County 2007 Score: 88 | $24

High-toned, with vanilla, raspberry and Bing cherry notes backed by a snap of red licorice on the finish. Good underlying acidity should help it age a touch, while it fleshes out. Syrah and Grenache. Drink now through 2011. 186 cases made. Red. —J.M

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